Spring Menswear: Moncler Gamme Bleu, Salvatore Ferragamo, Yohji Yamamoto, and more.

Moncler Gamme Bleu
Compared to Moncler Gamme Bleu's recent nominally-sports-themed collections, this one was practically restrained. Not a fencing mask in sight! And some of the clothes actually looked like clothes! Almost a disappointment, to be honest. I'd become oddly invested in the idea that Moncler Gamme Bleu was a label that had actual real-life customers who faithfully bought Thom Browne's seemingly unwearable designs season after season. Moncler Gamme Bleu always seems like a label invented for Saturday Night Live's Stefon sketches, you know?

Misgivings aside re: the tragic lack of truly ridiculous clothing, the show itself did look hella fun. The theme was sailing, meaning that most of the outfits looked like a cross between waterproof sailing gear and parts of yachts. I highly recommend watching footage of the show because it includes a line of Charleston-dancing sailors alongside the catwalk.

Ports 1961
I'm mostly including this because Robert Downey Jr needs to wear it.

Roberto Cavalli

Salvatore Ferragamo
I hope everyone likes translucent v-neck sweaters! Because if you don't, I'm coming round to your house and sitting you down in the Clockwork Orange chair and showing you these pictures until you do.

Really the only flaw in this shriekily bright show was the shoes. Ferragamo is known for Italian leather dress shoes, so it's kind of bemusing to me why they even decided to go for rainbow-coloured trainers in the first place. I doubt their regular buyers will be very enthused, for all that the menswear itself was excellent.

Vivienne Westwood

Yohji Yamamoto
Predictable Yamamoto fare: If you like him then you'll like this, but if you're not a Yamamoto fan then I can see why you'd be critical. I didn't see much development from his previous collections of baggy, shapeless streetware, and although I enjoyed this collection I feel like he needs to branch out a bit more in the future.