Business casual by way of Blade Runner? That's what I got from the earlier looks in this collection, anyhow. Unfortunately I was dead wrong, because Koma claims one of his primary inspirations was the art of Thierry Poncelot who, first of all, has the awesome name of Poncelot, and secondly... well, google him. Thierry Poncelot's work is exclusively portraits of dogs wearing human clothing. Perhaps I'm just not smart enough to see how that intersects with the various themes exhibited in this collection, but I doubt it.
Coats are, a real focal point for MaxMara, and this season they were accompanied by a masculine military/sailor theme. But while my love for button-braces continues unabated, my favourite thing was definitely the spats some of the models were wearing from knee to ankle.
This is the sort of adjustable clothing I hope to see more of in coming years -- the kind of designs that I expect from young designers such as this, who have more room to experiment with unconventional clothing forms.
Honestly I loved almost every look in this collection. It was that rare thing, a womenswear show that took inspiration from formal menswear but didn't fall into the trap of awful tuxedo pastiche. The diagonal wraparound cut of the figure-hugging dresses was exquisite, and the Stephen Jones hats complemented each outfit perfectly, transforming them from businesswear to faux-vintage cabaret.
What I wouldn't give to see more people dressing like this in real life.