"Dickensian" is one of the adjectives I've seen bandied about with regards to Marc Jacobs' latest collection, although I'm not sure if I see much of that myself. The loose fit of the coats and the oversized hats may suggest the look of a Victorian street urchin, but I suspect that many of the Dickens comparisons are thanks to the fact that the runway show was soundtracked with extracts from Oliver!
Slightly suspect concept work aside, this collection was absolutely brilliant. Marc played around with texture even more than he has done in the past, to the point that it often seemed more couture than RTW. He clearly has no qualms about putting on a big show for the Fashion Week crowd -- sets, music, the whole shebang.
A stylish, body-friendly silhouette. I'm not sure that the woollen skirts would work for everyone, but in general this was a chic but comfortably seasonal Fall RTW show.
Twist-wrap shirts are so flattering that I wish outfits like this were seen more often in real life. Doo.Ri is a label that has worked a lot in the past with the draping and wrapping of fabrics, so it was no surprise to me that there were so many subtle successes in that department this season. Looking through the soft greys, blacks and whites of this collection, I realised that Doo-Ri Chung had managed to do something quite rare: create clothes that imply flexibility and mobility without looking anything like workout gear.
Lava was the first thing that came to mind when I was looking through Helmut Lang. The first few items are a strong, volcanic red. Later, the palette fades to ash-black and grey, and finally a more subdued shade of beige.