The title of this show was The American Dream, but before I learned that I assumed it was more of an American sports theme than anything so metaphysical. The striped shirts were close relatives of the rugby jersey, and the skirts reminded me of cheerleading skirts thanks to the star patterns. "Leather sweatshirt" isn't really a look that works in real life, but by and large I approve of this show since it avoided the obvious red-white-and-blue stereotyping of a typical USA-themed collection. As is typical, the skirts were balanced out by heavily masculine touches over the rest of the outfits -- clumpy shoes, bullish nose-rings (inspired by the Minotaur, because apparently that's a thing that people are inspired by), hints of sportswear, and a lack of close tailoring. The concept of designers feeling the need to compensate for skirts in menswear collections is one that I find irritating, but easy enough to understand.
|And no, this isn't a kilt. Kilts don't have pleats at the front.|
Galliano is dead, long live Galliano. John himself is off being rehabilitated from his drunk/racist ranting ways, and the new boss seems to be taking pains to distance himself from Galliano cliche -- a canny decision on his part, for both marketing and stylistic reasons. The label's previous reliance on creating clothes that look exactly like Galliano's own wardrobe (and frequently styling their models to look like the man himself) isn't going to cut it now he's been shunned by the fashion world, so a new direction was needed. The campy nature of many of the looks in this collection stayed true to the Galliano ethos (Fashion ethos, that is. Not, you know, the other one.) without the need to trot out thirty Galliano clones.
here on Hello, Tailor). The metal-plated shoes were reminiscent of armour, but aside from that the '30s looks ran strong -- gangster suits, wide-legged trousers, and military looks such as the jodhpur outfit pictured above.
Shirt-dresses, skinny trousers and slim-cut jackets -- top half Jeremy Irons or Daniel Day-Lewis, bottom half obnoxiously trendy music-video director.
It's hardly groundbreaking suit design, but I had to post some of this collection since the photoshoot was so oppressively Edward Cullenesque. Lots of pale, beautiful men wearing exquisite yet rather melodramatic dark suits, posing against what looks like the backdrop of a high school drama department.
Supposedly this collection was meant to look like the New York Dolls (plus Robert Smith/Joan Jett hair) but I felt it was far more Japanese thanks to faux-Victoriana streetstyle outfits such as the one below, and the overall look of urban subculture androgyny.
Walter van Beirendonck is a magical being. I can only hope that somewhere in the world there's such a thing as a combination ice cream parlour/rubber fetish club, since that's the only place his designs are ever going to look at home. To give you some van Beirendonck precedent, here's a picture of one of last year's creations:
|pics from Style.com|