This collection was more androgynous than last season's, but aside from that it almost seemed like a watered-down version of the Fall 2011 line rather than a development. A lot of the jacket/blouse combinations -- although brilliant -- could have been taken directly from last season, and I wasn't very keen on the filmy, transluscent gowns. It's safe to say that I want every single pair of shoes, though.
|I love a good paisley pattern.|
I'm including pictures of almost every shoe in the collection because they were all so splendid. The fabrics are stunning, and although I'm not wild about the trodden-down heels (wouldn't they slip off?) they're still far more interesting than the vast majority of catwalk-staple spike heels.
Ackermann's love of tying scarves and belts around his models rather than resorting to buttons or zips always adds to the softness of his designs, and I really liked the small slits visible in several of his suit-jacket designs this season. A lot of designers have been experimenting recently with putting gaps and peep-holes in unexpected places, but most of the time I view it is as rather impractical for those of us who a) aren't as toned as a 15-year-old gymnast, and b) occasionally have to expose ourselves to real-life weather. Also, I've noticed a distressing number of dresses with a sort of slot directly above the midriff area, showing off about six inches of sternum -- it just seems so vulnerable and unappealing. Like in Buffy when vampires wander around wearing t-shirts like, YOU ARE BEGGING TO GET STAKED THROUGH THE HEART, WEAR SOME ARMOUR OR SOMETHING. OK that was pretty tangential, I admite, but it bothers me a bit is all I am saying.
With a jacket like this one you could wear a brightly-coloured shirt underneath and have it show through the gap, like the slits in a 17th Century doublet. Nifty! And no need to have your bottom right rib be 100% chillier than the others.
|Seriously, Haider Ackermann is a master of the jewel tone.|
The shape and cut of Ackermann's designs are usually so sleek and modern, but I love that he's used this incredibly rich, old-fashioned fabric to make them. It looks like a smoking-jacket or Victorian gentleman's dressing-gown, almost.
|More beautiful ties and folds.|