Unordered List

Saturday, 26 January 2013

Couture Fashion Week 2013: Chanel, Dior, and Ulyana Sergeenko

Click here for previous Chanel posts. 

Chanel's Mary Queen Of Scots collection last season was fantastic, so I can only assume that Karl Lagerfeld used up his yearly quota of awesome on that one. Bearing in mind that this is a Couture show, one would think that it would be better than Pre-Fall. Not so. Instead, the theme (Weimar Germany... something...?) was unclear at best, and totally absent at worst As a kind of psychological palate-cleanser, I'm going to start this post with the ugliest outfit of the show, just so we can get it over with and move on to better things:
This looks like someone put a bunch of lei garlands in a blender, spackled them all over a tube dress, and accessorised it with an apron jacket worn by a Midwestern housewife in the 1980s. Karl Lagerfeld, what were you thinking?

Most of the show was rather more sedate. 68 looks in all, this collection was mostly dedicated to Chanel-classic suits, although the tailoring was unfortunately even boxier than usual. Most puzzling of all were the shoes, which in addition to being open-toed boots (WHY?), were attached to lacey leggings that looked itchily uncomfortable and made the models' legs look wrinkly and shapeless.
The one dress that I'd actually wear:
I find it constantly bizarre that for someone so pathalogically obsessed with thinness (both personally and for women in general), Lagerfeld designs clothes that are just... not slimming at all. I mean, the suits this season are pretty damn cuboid, but this dress is just... a cone. A cone with arm-protectors. No wonder the model is crying her mascara all over her face: her knees are bleeding because the dress is made of concrete and doesn't bend when she walks.
 This is what the woman from the blended-garlands picture wore to her Prom:
Instead of the traditional solo bridal dress finale, Lagerfeld ended the show with a pair of brides as a kind of "fuck you" to the gay marriage debate currently going on in France at the moment. I agree in spirit, but the gowns themselves were... really not all that great.

Dior
Dior relies upon the sweeping, formal gown in the same way that Chanel relies upon the skirt-suit. Moreso, really, since Chanel is really Lagerfeld's brand now, whereas Dior is still very much reliant upon the same designs it was producing in it's heyday, the 1950s. The hope is that new Creative Director Raf Simons will revitalise the brand and become their very own Lagerfeld (or a scandal-free Galliano), but I'm yet to be convinced.
Raf Simons' previous role was Creative Director at Jil Sander, where he introduced a very minimalist design style that led to the hugely popular colour-blocking trend that's been everywhere for the past couple of years. He wouldn't have been my first choice for a ladylike, old-fashioned brand like Dior, but perhaps Dior is trying to take a step away from ladylike and old-fashioned. Whether or not that was their actual aim, this show was not particularly impressive. It had little of the luxurious detail of recent Dior couture collections, seeming more like a combination of rather conservative classic Dior designs with a few jarringly unexpected Raf Simons outfits thrown in to remind everyone that he was there.
This yellow dress was one of my few genuine favourites. The two-layer cutaway is interesting, but the extreme simplicity of the shape and colour of the dress as a whole helped to balance it out. Honestly, it looks far more Raf Simons than Dior, but I'll take it.

Ulyana Sergeenko
I had nothing but good things to say about Ulyana Sergeenko's Couture show last year, and even though this was a little cheesier than expected, it had its good points.
In a complete u-turn from last year's nod to Sergeenko's Russian heritage, this collection was all about America. On the bright side, it didn't have any denim-clad cowboys, which is more than one can say for 99% of other USA-themed fashion shows. But it was guided by Hollywood's depiction of America (not exactly an unexplored topic in the world of fashion), leading to things like this pretty but somewhat pointless version of Scarlett O'Hara's green curtain dress in Gone With The Wind:
Rather more to my taste was this ultra-tailored black Puritan dress, which had a kind of fetishised conservatism that the goth in me just can't resist. I'm glad to see that Sergeenko is retaining the long, heavy skirts from her earlier work, since there are so few designers who ever go for this look. Most designers are so concerned with femininity and a slim silhouette that skirts like this are dismissed as unflattering, but Sergeenko is proving that they can be worn with style.

I'm not 100% clear on what this final outfit was supposed to be, but I'm pretty sure Tailor Swift is going to be wearing it in her next video.

Click here for previous Chanel posts.

4 comments:

  1. Ah, and we're back to the Karl Lagerfeld I love to hate. "Avante-garde clowns" is supposed to be a JOKE people make about fashion, not an actual inspiration.

    ReplyDelete
  2. WELCOME TO THE GREAT TEMPLE OF

    ILLUMINATI
    WORLDRICHES WITHOUT BLOOD SHARED.
    Are you a business
    Man, politician, musical, student and you
    want to be rich, powerful and be
    famous in life. You can achieve your
    dreams being a member of the
    Illuminati.With this all your dreams and
    heart desire can
    be fully accomplish. it's well-known fact that Freemasonry/
    ILLUMINATI consist of Multi Millionaires, Billionaires who have major
    influence regarding most global affairs,
    including the
    planning of a New World Order. Many
    world leaders,
    Presidents, Prime Ministers, royalty and
    senior executives
    of major Fortune 5,000 companies are
    members of Freemasonry. Now, for the FIRST TIME IN HISTORY, we are
    opening our doors to the masses. JOINING THE ILLUMINATI BRINGS YOU
    INTO THE LIMELIGHT OF THE WORLD IN WHICH YOU LIVE IN TODAY. YOUR
    FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES ARE BROUGHT TO AN END. WE SUPPORT YOU BOTH
    FINANCIALLY AND MATERIALLY TO ENSURE YOU LIVE A COMFORTABLE LIFE.
    IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH PART OF THE WORLD YOU
    LIVE IN. if you wish to be a member of this
    organisation this is your
    opportunity don’t be afraid
    CONTACT VIA:
    MOBILE: +447031946556 or +2347032073721
    MAIL: joinilluminati618@gmail.com
    WORSHIP CENTER:BANANA HIGH LAND
    WISH YOU ALL THE BEST IN LIFE DOORS
    OPEN
    if you want to add our
    Agent on whatsapp add +2347032073721

    ReplyDelete

  3. Are you a business man, politician, musical, student and
    you want to be rich, powerful and be famous in life or need a
    power to achieving your dreams. You can achieve your
    dreams by being a member of the Illuminati. With this all
    your dreams and heart desire can be fully accomplish, if you
    really want to be a member of the great Illuminati then you
    can whatapp. us
    +2348112252378 Full name....................................
    Country....................................... State of origin.........
    ................... Date of birth...............................
    Sex.............................................. Address........
    ............................. Phone.........................................
    Email address..................... whatapp us at
    (+2348112252378) or email us at (thegreatilluminati666@gmail.com)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Are you a business man, politician, musical, student and
    you want to be rich, powerful and be famous in life or need a
    power to achieving your dreams. You can achieve your
    dreams by being a member of the Illuminati. With this all
    your dreams and heart desire can be fully accomplish, if you
    really want to be a member of the great Illuminati then you
    can whatapp. us
    +2348112252378 Full name....................................
    Country....................................... State of origin.........
    ................... Date of birth...............................
    Sex.............................................. Address........
    ............................. Phone.........................................
    Email address..................... whatapp us at
    (+2348112252378) or email us at (thegreatilluminati666@gmail.com)

    ReplyDelete